Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Cosmic watch in 38mm
Cover Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Cosmic watch in 38mm

Direct from Geneva, Tatler's watch editors round up 10 memorable watches at the international watch fair

From tourbillons to minute repeaters, from gold to bejewelled stunners, Watches & Wonders 2023 offered up a splendid spread of fine timepieces. The week-long watch fair in Geneva featured no less than 48 maisons that represent some of the best in the industry today.

They came out guns a-blazing, showcasing brilliant innovations that push boundaries, designs that will marvel for years to come; some even added soulful touches to cold mechanics. It's hard to whittle down to just 10 out of hundreds, but here they are, in no particular order, Tatler's take on the best of the best at Watches & Wonders 2023. 

In case you missed it: Watches & Wonders 2023: From Jaeger-LeCoultre to Van Cleef & Arpels, these are the key highlights on Day 4

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001

Tatler Asia
Above Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001

"One can hardly go wrong with an Aquanaut, but it was the combination of the blue-grey dial and strap with rose gold, the introduction of an annual calendar in addition to a moon phase complication (one of my favourites), and inverted display in the new Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 that steals my heart. It is elegant yet practical; the perfect sports watch in my books—especially in its 39.9mm case, which sits beautifully on my wrist." - Annabel Tan

Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Cosmic

Tatler Asia
Above Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Cosmic

"I adore a touch of whimsy, and Chanel’s line of Mademoiselle J12 watches featuring a cartoon Gabrielle Chanel on the dial strikes the right balance between cute and chic. In this new Mademoiselle J12 Cosmic, which is part of Chanel’s Interstellar capsule collection this year, Mademoiselle is dressed in a black-and-white evening gown, with her arms not only functioning as the hour and minute hands but also creating the illusion of her playing with the stars in the night sky." - Annabel Tan

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

Tatler Asia
Above Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

"Chopard’s Alpine Eagle has been a popular line of sports watches for the maison, but the new Alpine Eagle 41 XPS appeals to me much more than its predecessors for a couple of reasons. First, the dial has a cleaner look with the small seconds display at 6 o’clock; previous models featured a date window between 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock. The salmon pink dial colour, which Chopard has dubbed "Monte Rosa Pink”,  is also a gorgeous new shade, and is made even more radiant and attractive with the textured pattern on a brass base." - Annabel Tan

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Tatler Asia
Above Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

"Retrograde displays are the focus at Vacheron Constantin with the signature complication appearing in its Overseas collection for the first time. Even with the inclusion of a moon phase, the dial still has a clean look that maintains the modern, sporty spirit of the Overseas. I’m also a fan of the lustrous blue lacquered dial with a sunburst satin-brushed centre that complements the interchangeable steel bracelet, blue calfskin leather strap and blue rubber strap." - Annabel Tan

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret Watch

Tatler Asia
Ludo Secret Watch
Above Ludo Secret Watch
Tatler Asia
Ludo Secret Watch

"This year, the love for secret watches is apparent. One that stands out for me is Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest interpretation of the Ludo secret watch in pink sapphires. The bracelet links through the sapphire-studded motif making it look like jewellery at first glance, but when you press gently on the sapphire encrusted wings, it opens up to reveal a watch with guillochéd white mother-of-pearl dial." - Amrita Katara

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

Tatler Asia
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Above Jaeger-LeCoultre

"This is the year of the Reverso at Jaeger-LeCoultre, and the watchmaker has truly put its best foot forward by reinventing the model's legacy. The Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon makes it to my list for its balance of sheer complexity, innovation, ergonomics and, of course, aesthetics. The watch sits on the wrist with ease, offering a reminder from the past and a peek into the future of watchmaking. The day-night indicator and the second time zone on the opposite face are also a great surprise." - Amrita Katara

Cartier Baignoire

Tatler Asia
Above Cartier's fully paved mini Baignoire
Tatler Asia

"With more than 80 novelties, the Cartier booth at Watches & Wonders has something for everyone but it is the mini Baignoire reference that really resonates with me. The watch, which is available in rose gold, yellow gold, and fully paved, can be easily stacked with other bracelets and jewellery pieces to create a chic look. It's powered by a quartz movement and makes a great daily accessory." - Amrita Katara

Rolex Perpetual 1908

Tatler Asia
Rolex Perpetual 1908
Above Rolex Perpetual 1908 in yellow gold

"Rolex springs a couple of surprises—most notably the out-of-character bubble and jigsaw watches—but if we were to place our bets on one that is most likely to hang around a little longer, it would be the Perpetual 1908. An entirely new model, it's a great-looking dress watch that hits all the right notes, complete with a new movement calibre 7140 with patented Chronergy escapement that promises better reliability and efficiency." - Brian Cheong

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph

Tatler Asia
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph
Above Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph

"I've always had a soft spot for Grand Seiko, and its first chronograph for the Evolution 9 sports series knocks it out of the park. Despite its robust proportions, it's extremely wearable thanks to the lightweight high-intensity titanium case and bracelet. It's powered by the new Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 that beats 10 times per second for a remarkable accuracy, whether it is measuring elapsed or normal time. It is further elevated with the ability to run for three days even when the chronograph is in operation, making it a 10-beat chronograph with the longest power reserve.

It's always interesting when Grand Seiko adds a touch of Japanese aesthetics to its watches, which is always a huge attraction for me. In this case, the Tentagraph comes with a blue textural dial featuring a pattern inspired by the rugged contours of the mountain next to its watchmaking studio." - Brian Cheong

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Aqua

Tatler Asia
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Aqua
Above IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Aqua

"Green dials continue to dominate this year and the best of the lot is this automatic Ingenieur's aqua on a distinctive grid dial. Appearing on the stellar update of Gerald Genta's redesign of the Ingenieur from the 1970s, it's a vibrant colour that really pops against the stainless steel that forms the case and the integrated H-link bracelet." - Brian Cheong

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