What is your favourite piece from your own high jewellery collection? What makes it so important?
It is impossible for me to select just one favourite jewellery piece, as there are several which are significant to me for both design and personal reasons. I am very fortunate to have several Jean Schlumberger pieces which I have collected over 35 years, and they are special as they commemorate important moments in my life and career, as I just covet his designs. My grandmother gifted me a beautiful gold art deco bracelet that my grandfather gave her, and that, along with my Schlumberger pieces, are the ones that I adore the most and wear almost daily. 

Tiffany & Co has an impressive legacy of innovative approaches to gem-cutting, such as the Lucida diamond cut. Can you tell us about an example that particularly excites you?
We are very proud of the innovative ways we are both cutting and setting our diamonds in our new Blue Book Collection: Out of the Blue. Often described as the flower of the sea, the sea anemone [introduced in the Blue Book Collection: Out of the Blue] lives at the bottom of the ocean as if frozen in a state of perpetual bloom. This range honours the dexterity of this creature and recreates it using unparalleled craftsmanship. [One of the pieces in the range is a] ring that features a highly innovative design that sets the diamonds en tremblant [a setting which produces a trembling effect], lending a subtle sense of motion and movement to the collection, imagining the diamonds moving in the waves of the ocean. Additionally, the diamonds were brilliantly set with the culets [small flat facet at the bottom of a gemstone] facing outward to amplify the spiky texture of an anemone and to showcase the dazzling brilliance that diamonds are so [desired].

Sustainability and ethical sourcing have become very important in the gem industry. How does Tiffany & Co approach responsible sourcing of gems and materials?
In communities around the world, mining and trading coloured gemstones is a cultural tradition and source of livelihood passed down [over] generations. Approximately 80 per cent of the world’s coloured gemstones come from small-scale, artisanal mines [in] more than 40 countries; the industry is highly complex, making it difficult to trace a gem’s origins. Tiffany & Co uses strict protocols for sourcing the approximately 60 varieties of gems used in its jewellery; and is helping set industry standards that account for the realities of the supply chain, while seeking to increase transparency and traceability.

Tiffany & Co collaborates to create standards and share best practices to promote responsible gemstone supply chains. In 2015, Tiffany joined others in the luxury jewellery industry and coloured gemstone mining sector to form the Coloured Gemstone Working Group, which has developed due diligence tools, training materials and other resources for the coloured gemstone sector. Through industry partnerships and philanthropy, Tiffany and The Tiffany & Co Foundation also support a range of stakeholders from miners and traders to cutters and polishers, to help the coloured gemstone sector support sustainable livelihoods in the many places people depend on it.

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As a woman in the historically male-dominated field of gemology, what unique perspectives and expertise do you bring? What advice would you give young women interested in this field?
I joined Tiffany in 1987 and believe that every position I have held has been a stepping stone to the position of chief gemologist. It’s been the greatest honour of my career to be named chief gemologist at Tiffany & Co, and I’m extremely proud to be the first woman to be appointed in this esteemed role. The role is an ongoing quest to find the perfect diamonds and gemstones for our amazing jewellery collections. I am fortunate to travel the world, searching for these stones that meet our incredibly exacting standards. Experiencing the journey each stone takes and working directly in close collaboration with our designers and artisans to bring these extraordinary creations to life is always humbling and very inspiring. When I am mentoring women who ask for advice, I counsel them to always follow their dreams, as, with hard work and passion, they can come true.

How does Tiffany & Co balance tradition and innovation when it comes to gem cuts, jewellery design and the customer experience?
A wonderful example of balancing tradition with innovation is how we lifted bespoke gemstones in the Pisces Collection in our 2023 Blue Book Collection. We are exceptionally proud of the very rare and coveted Padparadscha sapphires we sourced for the Out of the Blue collection—we procured over 100 of these rare stones, which took us over a year. They are extraordinary gemstones as they need to have the perfect balance of orange and pink, and our Padparadscha are also all unenhanced, taking them to another level of rarity.

What advice would you want to share with aspiring gemologists?
My advice is to remain curious—as this way you will always be learning—and continually strive for excellence.

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