Cover Jacob Arabo at the opening of Jacob & Co’s Hong Kong boutique (Photo: courtesy of Jacob & Co)

Hip-hop’s favourite ‘Jacob the Jeweller’, who counts Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Madonna and other A-listers among his clients today, has come a long way from being a teenage immigrant in the US who always had ‘ideas to design’

In the world of high-end jewellery and luxury timepieces, few names carry the same weight and sparkle as Jacob & Co. Founded by Jacob Arabo, this brand has adorned the limbs and torsos of the rich and famous with pieces that are as much art as they are jewels. But the road to becoming Hollywood’s favourite “Jacob the Jeweller” wasn’t paved with diamonds from the start. It was carved out with hard work, a keen eye for design, and the courage to take risks. 

Arabo sat down with Tatler at the launch of his first Asian boutique at The Peninsula Hong Kong, in collaboration with Cortina Watch, as he talks about his early days as an immigrant with big dreams, his unexpected rise to fame, and what it means to truly believe in the beauty you create.

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Tell us about your early days.
I was only 14 when I [went] to America. My parents were immigrants from the [former] Soviet Union … My father got me a job when I was 13 years old [in USSR]. During summer break, I was too old to go to camp and he didn’t want me to sit around and hang out with friends. So he got [me] a job for the whole three months [of] summer to learn photography.

How did photography influence your journey into jewellery design?
All [that] summer, I was working for this professional photographer in his studio. I was developing pictures myself, in one of those [old-school photography] laboratories. That gave me the vision to design, because in photography, you [have to visualise] the picture before you take it. So when I was 16, I decided that I was going to become a [jewellery] designer, because I knew I always had ideas to design.

What was your first step in the jewellery business?
I had no idea how to build a brand or what branding is all about; all I wanted to do was to create. Without thinking about a business plan, I started to educate myself to build a brand. I was just concentrating on making a good living, and creating jewellery; there were no watches back then. So I got a job as a jeweller at a very low pay—it was US$125 a week. I thought to myself, this is not enough for me to make a living and support my family, [so] I started asking the [other jewellers] in the factory: “How long [have you been] working here?”. One said 10 years. I asked: “How much do you make?” [He said] US$400 a week. That’s it, huh? [So I thought,] it takes a long time to grow. So I asked my boss, “Can I design jewellery for you?”. Even though I wasn’t [hired] as a designer for the company, I had come in as a jeweller. So he said, “Yeah, you could try.” That’s how I started designing jewellery.

How did you move from designing for someone else to starting your own brand?
I created jewellery from the leftover [materials]—not drawing the jewellery, but actually making new pieces [made] of gold. [My boss’s brand] became very well-known and they started taking a lot of orders on this jewellery [that I had made] because they were selling to department stores in good quantities. It was nothing expensive back then, but still made of gold and diamonds. I [had] started making real money, like [up to] US$2,000 a week within nine months [of starting]. After that, I went to my boss, and I said, “Thank you very much for the opportunity. I [have] got to leave because I want to do my own business.”

And that led to you becoming “Jacob the Jeweller” with a huge celebrity clientele. How did that happen?
That also wasn’t planned; nothing was really planned. After I established the factory and became successful in the wholesale business, I opened the first Jacob & Co store in 1986. It was a small store, and I started designing pieces of jewellery that I really wanted to make … interesting jewellery that nobody else [was making]. My store was in a place where [there are] a lot of jewellers … and the other jewellers were telling me, “This is not what sells, we sell engagement rings and wedding bands all day long … What are you doing? It’s not gonna sell, it’s not bread and butter.” And I said, “It’s okay. It’s what I want to do.” I did what I wanted to do. 

They were statement pieces: one-of-a-kind, interesting rings, pendants and chokers. Everything I did was different—and that’s how I attracted these sports [personalities], rappers and singers. Some of them even spotted [my jewellery] in the window displays and walked in to [buy them]. And then they brought their friends and started talking about the pieces in their circles, saying, “Oh, where’d you get this piece?” And they would say, “Jacob … Jacob the Jeweller”. And that’s how I became famous among these people. Some of them came to see me and I didn’t even know who they were. [They included] Biggie Smalls, Biz Markie, LL Cool J from the 80s and 90s; and then there was Beyonce and Jay-Z, Pharrell Williams, Madonna, Michael Jackson—the list goes on and on.

Tatler Asia
Jacob Arabo at the opening of Jacob & Co’s Hong Kong boutique (Photo: courtesy of Jacob & Co)
Above Jacob Arabo at the opening of Jacob & Co’s Hong Kong boutique (Photo: courtesy of Jacob & Co)

Your Five Time Zone watch was a game-changer when you released it in 2001. How did you come up with such an innovative idea?
I am a designer. I took a piece of paper and [drew]. My wife thought … it was a Mickey Mouse watch because it had different colours and different shapes. At that time, my clients were travelling the world and cell phones were not so big back then, so I wanted to give them a watch with five time zones: Japan, Los Angeles, New York, London and Paris. It was a very new offering back then. World time watches were difficult to read back then, and this was easy for people—and I made it cool.

What are the biggest risks you have taken in your career?
Everything is a risk. Every watch you make is a risk. You always ask: will it be successful? Will it be the way you envision it? It’s the same for jewellery ... I don’t mind taking the risk because I’m sure about it. When I do something, I believe in it. If you don’t believe in it, then why do it? Risk is for investment companies. They invest in companies and buy stock: that’s risk. For me, I live for this. This is my passion.

What is the next big celebrity collaboration you’re working on?
I am collaborating with the biggest Indian [Bollywood] star, Salman Khan. He’s very loved … He wants to collaborate with me and we are going to make a Salman Khan watch because he’s worth it, he deserves it. He has built such a career in Bollywood. And this is not just to make money, it’s to make history.

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