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Tatler shines a spotlight on Chanel’s lasting influence in the watchmaking industry
In the world of luxury, attention to detail is what separates the exceptional from the ordinary. Whether it’s the sleek design of a car, the precision in a diamond’s cut, the majesty of a yacht or the craftsmanship of a custom-made jacket, this dedication is a universal principle. Chanel, known for its haute couture, exemplifies this dedication to craftsmanship, standing unmatched in the industry. However, the brand’s significant involvement in the high-end world of watchmaking is not as widely recognised.
It all began in 1987 when Chanel made a historic entry into haute horlogerie with the introduction of the Première watch. This move wasn’t just an expansion of Chanel’s luxury offerings but a tribute to its storied heritage, drawing inspiration from the iconic shape of its Place Vendôme location and the distinctive stopper of the N°5 perfume bottle. This blend of fashion and horological precision marked the beginning of the maison’s quest to marry beauty with the complexity of watchmaking. The acquisition of the Swiss manufacturer G&F Châtelain in 1993 was a key turning point, significantly boosting Chanel’s ability to produce timepieces of unmatched quality. Situated in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heartland of watchmaking, the manufacture represents the perfect marriage of age-old craftsmanship with modern technology. From initial designs crafted in the Parisian Creation Studio to the precise assembly by Swiss watchmakers, every watch is a testament to Chanel’s relentless pursuit of elegance and accuracy.
The new millennium saw the brand reinforcing its presence in the luxury watch market with the J12 collection, known for its innovative use of ceramic. The J12 not only confirmed the maison’s command over new materials but also highlighted its dedication to evolving watch design. Though the brand wasn’t the first to use ceramic in watchmaking, the collection undeniably played a crucial role in popularising this material in the industry.
In 2020, the maison’s watchmaking studio continued to push boundaries with the release of the J12 X-Ray, one of the very first watches to feature a bracelet entirely made of sapphire crystal. This groundbreaking piece, together with the innovative use of ceramic in the J12 collection, underscores Chanel’s commitment to innovation in watchmaking. The technique required to produce high-quality ceramic or sapphire cases is not simple, needing both significant knowhow and investment, meaning these materials are less commonly used in watches than precious metal like gold or platinum.
Chanel’s story in haute horlogerie is further enriched by strategic partnerships and investments, especially with independent watchmakers who share its commitment to creativity and excellence. The 2018 investment in FP Journe, taking a 20 per cent stake, exemplifies the fashion powerhouse’s strategy to support and develop watchmaking expertise. This, alongside a similar investment in Romain Gauthier in 2011, showcases its effort to combine high-end watchmaking with its iconic design ethos.
The brand’s innovative spirit and strategic foresight in collaborations highlight its role as a leader in bridging haute couture artistry with horological precision. These partnerships have not only strengthened its dedication to watchmaking craftsmanship but have also ensured the continued tradition of innovative and exceptional watchmaking under the Chanel name. Moreover, its horological advancements and achievements have been acknowledged at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), showcasing its ability to blend aesthetic elegance with technical skill. The brand’s win in 2012 with the Première Tourbillon Volant, for its decorative use of the tourbillon, marked a significant moment for the industry, signifying a shift towards appreciating design in watchmaking as much as technical prowess. Securing six wins in the last 10 years in the GPHG categories such as Ladies, Jewellery and Artistic Crafts has been a significant achievement. It is also important to point out that Chanel launched its first in-house movement—calibre 1—in 2016, and since then, it has continued to create and manufacture its in-house movements like calibre 2, 3, 5 with different variations. The latest exclusive calibre 12 series is an automatic workhorse for the J12 watch, which has added elegance to reliability and dependability.
In 2023, Chanel broke new ground by creating the Mademoiselle Privé Pique- Aiguilles, a ladies’ watch with a 55mm case—a groundbreaking moment for individuality and design. This bold step, along with numerous other introductions of innovations such as the spring-loaded folding buckle and the bold styling of the tourbillon cage, demonstrates Chanel’s lasting influence in watchmaking, showing that its contributions go beyond aesthetics to include functional innovations adopted by many in the industry.