When did you find out that he would be wearing it for the Oscars?
The day before [the ceremony], or maybe even ten minutes before he walked onto the red carpet.

I remember someone from your team telling me you went physically to LA to deliver it. What was the whole process like until the day you delivered it.
I hand-delivered it. And truth be told, [it was] incredibly stressful. I was extremely jet-lagged and I went all the way for one night. It was just an emotional roller coaster. And throughout the process, of course, I didn’t hit the bullseye with the first arrow. I mentioned the first initial discussion; it was very casual in December. So there were multiple discussions [after that]. Of course, we did not know back then whether he would be winning, let alone scooping up all these awards from Golden Globes, BAFTA, SAG, and so on. Of course, he’s always been the frontrunner. But again, for me, I did not expect it. It was really beyond our wildest dreams.

How did you get into jewellery designing?
I wouldn’t say I’ve gone into jewellery. I have bonafide jewellers [working with me but], I’m not one of them. However, for my brand Sauvereign, we have always been creating precious, artisanal creations using noble metal or semi-precious metals. So we had already stepped into that role, and because of my background, with high horology and watchmaking, I think there’s a blurry line between the two [worlds]. Ultimately, this for me isn’t a piece of jewellery. It is a symbol of expression, of artistry, of intellectual integrity.

So I don’t see it really as a jewellery piece, even though it is considered as such. And if you look at what Murphy has been wearing throughout his career, especially within the past few years, he’s always been very low profile. He’s always been very below the radar, very enigmatic, and I suppose comfortable in his own skin. He’s not the archetypal mega movie star. He’s always saying that he’s just an actor. So he’s not really endorsing any major brands. So for him to ultimately decide on wearing the brooch, or as I call it, our gem: I think it’s really remarkable.

How did Murphy contribute to the designing process?
I am wearing a brooch today and I have been wearing brooches since God knows how many years, way before it was popular. In the recent years, especially on red carpets, you do see men flaunting jewellery [and wearing] elaborate garments. But you will never have seen it [this elaborate style] on Cillian. So [style] is a deeply personal thing. With his character and also how much integrity he has as a person, as an individual and as a professional, he can’t be told what to do, what to wear and what not to wear. So he was somewhat involved, even though I did not receive an articulate brief either by himself or his stylist.

I have been given pointers to which direction I should be going, or I have come up with proposals that I’ve spent endless nights preparing and pulling my hair out. And then it would take months for them to come back and say, “we don’t like it”. So I do appreciate the process because sometimes the worst for anybody is to not get feedback. Not very often we get a second chance in life, and through this process, I’ve had quite a few second chances, so I count myself very fortunate. One of the biggest challenges was really to craft a piece from scratch within one week [from the approval of the design to the final product].

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What was the inspiration behind the brooch?
The inspiration was from the movie Oppenheimer, but I’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from Murphy himself. It is deeply connected to Murphy, to J Robert Oppenheimer, the enigmatic character, and how [the actor and the character] are so dedicated to their craft. There’s a reason why Murphy was chosen for this role. I think it’s because he’s able to portray through-and-through the Oppenheimer character. For me, what is really important is how this piece of jewellery or piece of art could mirror that.

Throughout the process of designing, there has been a lot of temptation to over-decorate, to make it bigger because it would be more visible, or make it more easy to be noticed. It wasn’t easy for me to resist that temptation and take a step back and put myself in Murphy’s shoes. If I were him, what would I want? If I were Oppenheimer, back in the day, what would I highlight? It [the brooch] had to represent some meaning. When he accepted this most prestigious award, he said, “We are living in Oppenheimer’s time. This is an atomic bomb, whether you like it or not, this is a movie about it. That’s the history that we cannot change, but kudos and huge respects to the peacemakers.” So I believe this brooch is a symbol of what he believes in. And I’m so honoured to be able to be a part of it, to be a part of history.

While you have interpreted Cillian Murphy and Oppenheimer’s character through this brooch, how does it reflect your own personal aesthetic and brand?
I think one of the major reasons that there has been a lot of resonance is because I personally can relate to Murphy’s journey. He has been an actor for 30 years, 20 years with Christopher Nolan. He has not wavered. He has always been very adamant that he’s not a megastar, and he wants to stay away from the limelight. His perseverance is what I deeply connected with. I’ve struggled a lot in my career as well, especially trying to launch a luxury brand in Hong Kong, without the necessary connections or the deep pockets.

We’re not at the epicentre of luxury and fashion. There’s a reason why people would try to launch brands in Europe and America, rather than here in Hong Kong or in Asia. Trying to push it to the world stage is unusual. I wouldn’t say it’s never been done. But throughout this journey, I think there are very few precedents that we can name from Hong Kong who have succeeded, that we can follow in the footsteps of. What’s really driving me, motivating me, is that someone has to be the first. Every mountain is unclimbable until somebody climbs it.

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